Making a Trinity Wand


This blog came first. Then I created the Trinity Wand Picture Tutorial found in my public files here:

I haven't updated the blog yet to more accurately reflect how I currently design my Trinity Wands.


*** Current Pricing is:
*** 1-inch pipe...$40.00, shipping...$9.00 per TW
*** 1 1/4-inch pipe...$45.00, shipping...$12.00 per TW
*** 1 1/2-inch pipe...$55.00, Shipping...$15.00 per TW
*** All shipping is UPS Ground and only in the continental U.S.
*** I take personal checks, money orders and cashiers checks only.
*** Extras cost extra.
*** Email me here or at

This tutorial is based on how I make the Dragon Al model Trinity Wand. Here's what you'll need:

3 1 1/4-inch by 12-inch copper pipes
6 1 1/4-inch end caps
1 Container of Fast Steel or Quick Steel
(Fast Steel is found in paint dept. at Home Depot.
Quick Steel is found in auto dept. of Walmart)
1 Package of latex gloves
(I get mine from the dollar store)
1 Spool of 30-gauge Insulated Wrapping Wire
(Available at most Radio Shacks, comes in red,
white, and blue colors.)
1 18-inch by 2ft sheet of aluminum foil
1 Roll of aluminum tape
(Available at Home Depot in the air conditioning
section. Not necessary - packing tape will work -
its just what I use based on Dragon Al's original
1 Roll of 20-gauge copper wire
(I get mine from Ace Hardware)
1 Bottle of Sally Water
(Available from Sally at

In addition to these materials, you'll need enough orgonite (resin, shavings, quartz crystal, nickle coin, etc.) to fill the bottom of each pipe about 1 inch full. Only this tiny amount is needed to keep the water charged.

I break the building of the Trinity Wand into 9 parts:

Part 1
I get my copper pipe from Home Depot. I get them to cut the 10ft lengths in half so I can get them home in the car. Then at home I use a pipe cutter ($20 Home Depot) to cut the pipes down to 12-inch lengths.

Part 2
I put end caps on one end of the pipes. Then I put on the latex gloves (right hand only, for me) and squeeze off about 1/2-inch of the Fast Steel. I work the Fast Steel with my thumb and fingers until the two components (1 black and 1 grey) are well mixed. This begins the hardening process so you must be quick. Make a long worm of the material by rolling it between your thumb and index finger. Wrap worm shaped blob around edge of endcap and press into place to form a seal on the pipe. Let harden for about an hour.

Part 3
Stand pipes up on some newspaper on a hard, flat surface. Put shavings, crystals, and a nickle into each pipe. Mix resin up and pour just enough to cover shavings. Should fill up only an inch or so from the bottom of the pipe. Let harden. I usually let it stand overnight.

Part 4
Cut three 26.5-inch lengths of 20-gauge copper wire. Wrap each around a pencil into a 5-inch long spiral coil. Place one coil into each pipe. Mix about 1/4 gallon of distilled water with a few teaspoons of the Sally Water. I also stir that in with a Sally Water replicator wand (Small copper pipe sealed with pure Sally Water). Pour charged distilled water into pipes. Leave about 1/2-inch space in pipe for expansion.

Part 5
Carefully place the top end cap onto each of the pipes. Work up some more Quick Steel worm shapes and seal the end caps into place. Let harden for at least an hour.

Part 6
Stack water-filled wands horizontally into a pyramid shape and wrap the middle with the tape - just enough to hold them snuggly together. When I say stack, I mean just tape the three wands together. Looks like a bundle of dynamite, but is much more powerful, in a good way.

Part 7
Take 50ft Insulated Wrapping wire, attach one end to a nail or pin in your fence outside. Unroll until all the wire is out in a straight line. Bring your end and wrap that around the same nail or pin. Your wire should now be folded in half. Take a drill out to the end not attached to the fence. Put that end in the drill (I put a little piece of wire in there as well just to hold everything snug in the drill.) Spin counter-clockwise until the wrap forms little 45 degree angles (about a 16th of an inch between crests). Wire is now ready.

Part 8
Lay your wand pack flat. Find the end of your now twisted Insulated wire which splits into two wires. Tape this end to the left end of your wand pack. Wrap the wire around the wand pack once, about 1 1/2 inches from left end. When the wire has gone around the pack and meets up with the wire already laid, thread under that wire, pull snug. Wrap around again. Thread under both wires, pull snug. Do this until you have 6 wires side by side. When threading under, thread under all previously layed wires in the bundle. This is a mobius wrap. When you have 6 wires togther in a bundle, spiral wrap towards the center of the wand pack and start another bundle of six wires there. When done with that, use remaining wire to complete another wrap on the right side of the pack. Now you should have 3 mobius wraps equally spaced apart, all done using the same Insulated Wrapping wire. Shear off 1-inch of insulation from the end with 2 wires and twist them together to complete the loop. Tape to one of the copper pipes so the metals are touching.

Part 9
Wrap resulting unit in the aluminum foil. I just roll the pack up into the foil. Make sure the whole unit is covered. Tape any loose ends down. I use the aluminum tape wherever I mentioned tape in this tutorial.

Well, that's it. Now you have a very powerful and fully functional Trinity Wand. I like to bury one on my home property and the others at various locations around my community. Lorae Ireland says they are best buried alongside rivers or tossed into lakes. These units really come alive around water. But they work well buried anywhere. I like to stand mine up, orgonite end down, when I have the time and patience during deployments. Horizontal works fine too.

If resources are favorable, I build ten of the TWs together at an easy pace over a period of three days. On day 1 I cut the pipe, bond the end caps to one end, and pour the orgonite. On day 2 I seal the copper coils and water into the pipes. On day 3 I wrap the mobius coils around the units and put on the foil.

I've built Trinties using 3/4-inch, 1-inch, 1 1/4-inch and 1 1/2-inch copper pipe. The bigger they are, the more powerful. I choose the 1 1/4-inch pipe mostly because of the favorable power-to-cost ratio. If I could afford it, I'd be using the 2-inch pipe, but hey you gotta dream. The first ones I made for Lorae's summer 2000 western gifting spree were the 1 1/2-inch size. Later I sent her the 3/4-inch ones because money had gotten tight, but according to her those were nowhere near as powerful.

See here for Lorae Ireland's Trinity Wand deployment adventures across the western U.S.:
click on "20000 miles of orgonite.doc"

See here for Cbswork's thoughts on the Trinties: