Pyramid Crystal Charger
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Joined: 25 Jan 2005
Posts: 207
Location: Palouse Hills


Posted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 8:02 pm    Post subject: Pyramid Crystal Charger  

The simplest orgonite device is likely the TB: a crystal placed in metal shavings with resin. These are effective made just as described, but there are times when it may seem advisable to increase their power, especially in situations when they cannot be employed in quantity. Various methods have been used for this purpose, such as adding enhanced water to the resin mix or wrapping crystals with copper coils.

The simplest and most effective way I know to strengthen TBs is to charge crystals with a pyramid prior to construction. It requires a small cost and some attention to construct the pyramid, but once the pyramid is there, stones can be charged, and in quantity, for no further expenditure. It is my experience that the power of a TB whose crystal is charged in this way is at least doubled.

Requirements for the pyramid are as follows:
..(1).. it should have four triangular faces.
..(2).. the height of a triangular face should be half the length of its base times the Golden Ratio. Of course, since we are dealing with physical objects made by cutting and taping (or gluing), this can only be done approximately. For our purposes, we can take 1.6 for the Golden Ratio, which means that the height of a triangular face can be taken to be .8, or 4/5 of the base length.
..(3).. the insides of the pyramid should reflect light well. This can be done by using shiny metal for the faces, by painting the insides with silver paint, or covering the insides with shiny metallic tape. A simple solution for the base of the pyramid is to find a mirror on which to set the upper part. The upper part of the pyramid should not be attached to the base (unless by hinges on one side), because one must be free to put in and take out the objects to be charged.
..(4).. there must be a source of light to the inside of the pyramid. This can either be sunlight or artificial light. The simplest solution seems to be to cut the upper tips of the triangles off so that a hole is left at the top of the pyramid.
Some advocate that the pyramid be alligned North-South, or magnetically North-South, but I have found that the effects of doing this are only marginal, and that for practical purposes this can be ignored.

In my next post under this topic, I will detail how I construct them, but first a few things about their use:
..(1).. objects to be charged should be placed under the apex of the pyramid, about 1/5 the length of the base above the base. This can be done by hanging them on a string or copper wire which passes through the hole in the top. However, if the operator is not particularly energy sensitive, it is probably better to position a pedestal within the pyramid on which the objects to be charged can be placed: the height of the pedestal should be about 1/5 of the length of the base of the pyramid for best results. This pedestal should also reflect light.
..(2).. objects to be charged should stay inside the pyramid for at least 3 hours, but I usually leave them in about 12. During this time there must be a continuous source of light. If it is nighttime, or in a dark room during the day, one can leave a light bulb on above the hole in the top.
..(3).. when the charged objects are removed, they immediately begin to lose their charge, albeit slowly. Thus it is best to remove the crystals from the pyramid only just prior to pouring. Once the orgonite is formed, the crystals retain whatever charge they have at that point, apparently indefinately.

Last edited by Laozu on Sat Feb 26, 2005 2:09 am; edited 1 time in total

Joined: 25 Jan 2005
Posts: 207
Location: Palouse Hills

Posted: Sat Feb 26, 2005 2:01 am    Post subject:  

....SAMPLE CONSTRUCTION of a pyramid with base 15" by 15"...

Find a roll of shiny galvanized steel sheet metal of width 12" and cut off a length 37 and 1/2 inches. This can be purchased at a good hardware store, lumber yard, or sheet metal shop (such as a heating/AC business). Roll it out on a flat surface and mark it as in the picture here. Obtain a good pair of metal shears and cut along the lines (being careful not to cut yourself on the metal edges). Now clip the top inch off each triangle.

If you don't have access to metal shears, just have the sheet metal shop cut you four isosceles triangles with base 15" and height 12", having the top inch cut off as well. They may have some duct-work scraps on hand that will work.

Get some alumninum tape. Place the triangles side to side as in the figure, with the shinier side up, if there is one. Run a piece of tape down each joint, and run a fourth piece of tape along one of the non-joining sides, so that half of it overlaps, not sticking.

Carefully fold the sides to form a pyramid, with the tape inside, attaching the overlapping tape to the last side as the two unjoined sides come together. Now set the pyramid on the table with the open base on a flat surface.

Carefully tape the four outer joints. You do not specifically need the aluminum tape for this, but it will work fine.

Now we make the pedestal for charging the crystals. Depending on how many crystals you wish to charge at a time, get either a 11" two by six board or a 7" two by four board. Cut the board into two equal pieces, and glue one piece on top of the other. Since a two by six board is actually 1.5 by 5.5 inches, you will in this case have a block 5.5" by 5.5" by 3" high. In the two by four case, the block will be 3.5" by 3.5" by 3" high. Wrap the block with aluminum tape or paint it with silver paint to make it shiny.

Get a mirror at least 12" by 12" and lay it flat. Lay the block in the middle of the mirror and set the pyramid centered over the block. You are now ready to charge crystals. Just lay them flat on the block pedestal.